Monday, October 28, 2013

No Surfing in Baler - Day 1

"Sa crossing lang po (please stop near the intersection) ..." was the sound that awakened me from my deep slumber on board Genesis' Joy sleeper bus. Peering through the window I saw a couple of structures with one signage reading Baler, Quezon.  The famous Baler town at last!

Having left Cubao 12midnight and arriving around 5am, it was like a 6 hour overnight trip. Having made my research weeks before, I decided to take the Joy Bus of Genesis Transport.  The bus has wide seats that can be reclined and an on-board comfort room.  There was even a stewardess who handed out some goodies as we left Cubao. One way fare was 695.00PHP. I would recommend that you make prior reservations for the tickets.

 



I took a tricycle from the bus station to the Bay's Inn which was my home for the next two days while in town.  The room I reserved has been ready and after leaving my things I went straight to the beach front to see the sun rising from the horizon and for early breakfast. 

Sabang beach was wide! Facing the sea, to the left were the resorts area and going to the right were a few surf shops and the village houses of the fisher-folks. 

A few meters from Bay's Inn to the right was the then under construction Costa Pacifica Resort, the first high-end resort in Sabang beach (romured to be owned by the Angara's).


No, the're were no thundering waves in the sea. The sea was even calm.  It's July still.  Surfing season wont start until September and ends February, where accordingly 9-12 foot waves will show to the delight of the surfers from all over the world.  I did not come to Baler for the surf, but to see the place and the people.
 



It was during the late 70's that the locals started learning about surfing.  It was in Baler that most beach/surf scenes of the movie Apocalypse Now directed by Francis Ford Coppola was shot (not in Vietnam as many had thought).  

Most of the actors and crew left their surf boards behind after the filming. A few local teens picked up some of those boards and having no one to teach them, gathered together and took upon themselves to learn surfing. The rest is history, so to speak.


After breakfast, I went off exploring the beach front and beyond, that has become busy with tourist and locals walking to an fro.  Most of the surf-shops were still close. 

A lot of hammering and pounding was on-going though at the soon to be opened Costa Pacifica Resort.  I cant help but remember and draw some parallelism a few years back when I was in Palawan.  Sheridan Resort was also at it's completion stage at the Sabang (gateway to the Underground River) beach of Palawan.



This life-guard station, was empty for now.


 

I passed-by the local tricycle station and inquired about the rates for a tour around Baler later that afternoon.  I suggest you talk to tourism accredited tricycle drivers for they had been trained on how to be tour-guides at the same time.  For a whole day tour, expect to pay between 500.00-600.00Php.  I spent 300.00Php for my half-day tour.




I was unmindful of the heat from the mid-day sun as I was soaked up observing the various activities going on beach.  My attention however, was caught by this group of villagers pulling their nets to shore.





I hurriedly went closer to observe the event.  One doesn't get to see this kind of activity everyday especially if you're in the city.  I arrived just in time when the net has been fully pulled to shore and the villagers dividing their share of the catch.  Bayanihan in another form.



I did not come close to the group so they wont get conscious of my presence taking some pictures.  This little girl however, unexpectedly came close to me and showed me her share of the catch.

 
Some of the villagers went-off and headed to the poblacion to sell their share in the market.




These soon to be dried fish will be sold to the markets and reach the various parts of Luzon.  Dried fish is one of the money-making industry of the town.


These were the kind of images I hoped to capture whenever I am in some fishing-village.  Baler did not disappoint me. 



I finally found what I hoped to see - a light house.  In this case, more of light-post.  A fishing village has got to have one, especially in this part of the country that's facing the Pacific.





Having fully explored the nearby fishing village I decided to head to the poblacion to continue my exploration.  I decided to walk and passed by the very clean Doungan River. 




The place-marker found in front of the newly constructed municipal hall gives every visitor an encapsulated history of the Baler.



Near the municipal hall was the Quezon House containing several memorabilia  of the late President Manuel L. Quezon and his wife Aurora Aragon.  



Even the presidential car used by the late President was here, restored to its full grandeur.   


The caretaker gladly opened the doors to the glass house allowing me a closer look at the interiors of the vintage vehicle. 



Look at those  'power-buttons'. Classic! 


A block away was the Museo de Baler, housing several historical artifacts showing the significance of Baler the during the Spanish colonization. In front of the museum was the Quezon park with the statue of the late President Quezon at the center. 



Inaugurated in 2002, the museum’s historical mural, a cold cast that covers the facade, was created by sculptor Toym Imao, son of National Artist for the Visual Arts Abdulmari Imao. 



The work was commissioned by the former Sen.  Edgardo Angara and the Baler Historical Committee. The museum was put up partly to commemorate the Philippine-Spanish Friendship Day and relive the Siege of Baler.  

It took me a while to notice that a vintage car was in a glass house beside the building.  It's the MacArthur car. The vehicle used by Gen. Douglas MacArthur during his tour of duty in the Philippines.  



I had lunch right beside the Quezon park where a line of 'carenderias' offer various home cooked local-dishes.  I spent no more than a hundred pesos for a hearty lunch that got me sleepy after.  



Good thing my afternoon tour wont start until 2pm. Enough time for some siesta back at the resort.

First stop was the Ermita Hill and Park. This place probably had the best view of Baler town proper and the Sabang beach at the foreground with the sierra madre ranges as the background.




The Baler fish port and a portion of the Cemento Beach were very visible also from this part of town.  



The park was just an open space with several concrete huts, ideal for family picnics and dating.  There was a mini-zoo nearby and a trail leading to the a hill with a cross. 




Just at the exit coming from the Ermita Hill was a bronze sculpture depicting the flight of the towns-folk fleeing from a tsunami that hit the town decades ago.  Many perished.  



 
I did not stay long in the place and went off to the Cemento Beach. White sand, seashells, and crushed corals carpet the stretch of Cemento Beach. From this beach, surfers can wade towards the Cobra Reef. 


From October to February, waves tower up to 14 feet high, making for excellent and challenging surfing, as local and international surfing experts can attest. The area is recommended for expert or professional surfers as the waves break at the reef.  The area is also suitable for snorkeling and wall diving during the calm season from April to June.  

Why Cemento, because its in Bgy. Cemento.


I had to abort my visit to Digisit Beach since there were roadside landslides.  The tricylcle driver assured me that it's perfectly passable but my guts were telling me, no. So we headed back to the town proper and called it a day.  I just relaxed and sipped fresh coconut juice in the resorts restaurant while people-watching on the beach.  Several surfers were already on the water.

 
It was a full moon that night.  I spent a few hours in the beach after before 'hitting-the-sack' and getting a good night sleep.






Thank you for reading.

Feel free to message if you have any questions regarding travel to Baler.