The Rugged Charm of Batanes : A Sabtang Experience, Part I

hot pandesal

At 5am, I was already at Abad St., waiting for the PUJ for IVANA to pass-by.  

Joseph Dy of DNA Travel told me the night before that breakfast will be on the road on our way to Devuk Bay, so I took the time to buy some hot pan-de-sal from this young Ivatan. 

6am came and not a jeep came by.  We waited on the wrong street. No choice but to take a tricyle to bring us to Ivana port where a faluwa took us to Sabtang island.

a faluwa

A faluwa is an oval shaped motorized passenger boat without the outrigger. They are the preferred inter-island mode of sea-transport in Batanes. 

It looks more like Noah's Ark designed for it to just glide along the big waves of Batanes. The usual capacity of a faluwa is up to 15 to 25 people and can even carry motorcycles or cows and agricultural produce. 

Faluwa boat-making, had been a tradition and industry for the Ivatans.  They use the Palomaria wood for the boat.

foot-power!

The boat captain was steering the faluwa by foot!  The seas were choppy as we made the crossing from Ivana to Sabtang.  How choppy, hmmmm, maybe the waves we see every time a storm is coming, but again its relative since to the locals these were just normal waves. 

Looking at the way 'kapitan' was maneuvering the faluwa, told us me to worry. En route, we passed by a pod of dolphins swimming toward the south direction.

sabtang lighthouse

The Sabtang Lighthouse is the most prominent structure that one sees upon approach to the Sabtang Island. It is located on a hill with the entrance beside the NAPOCOR station.  Electricity on the island is powered by diesel and limited.

sabtang tricycles

The tricycle that became my transport in the island was already waiting as we disembarked from the faluwa.  As if to match with the majority of the houses in the island, the tricycles use the same material used by the houses for its roofing, which made them unique-looking and relaxing to ride.

on the road

The roads in the island were a combination of cement and dirt, but both are paved that traveling on a tricycle was enjoyable.  Unlike in Basco where I opted to back-ride with the driver, here I stayed under the roof.  Its scenic enough.

the cliff-road turn

This was one of the more interesting areas en route to Duvek Bay, worth doing a stop over for photo-ops. 

The view of the sea, the surrounding hills, the seas below and the outline of the Vuhus island provides a perfect background for any picture.  

Passing through the channel in between the cliff on board a speeding tricycle was such an adrenaline-rush!  Much like doing the zip-line.  

I would recommend such for any visitors going in the area.  Why?  Its for you to find out ...

The sands in Bgy. Nakanmuan was so fine and powdery.  Such a natural setting.  This barangay is, one of the fishing villages in the island.

white powdery sand

bay-view of Bgy. Sumnanga

Bgy. Sumnanga, another fishing village is the gateway to the Duvek Bay.  

It's also the last barangay in this part of  the island. Beyond this point are two high mountains, the Mt. Alapad and Mt. Aharung. If not for these mountains, Bgy. Sumnanga and Bgy. Chavayan are just beside each other. 

For now, it seems a dead-end after Duvek Bay.

days-old dried arayu

This is one of the MUST-eat food in Batanes and one good 'pasalubong' item to bring home.  

Served with yellow rice and a cup of tubho-tea, a cut of the fried dried arayu makes for a perfect breakfast.

If you intend to bring some home, make sure it is packed properly for a dried arayu will smell. You cannot hand-carry the item. 

serene Duvek Bay

The famed Duvek Bay!  The place was so serene.  Apart from a local or two passing by, it was just me and Joseph who were there witnessing the view.  

Maybe it's the contrast between the rocks, the sandy-beach, the mountains beyond and of course the serenity that made this place so beautiful.  Not much visitor come here, except for the more adventurous ones.

the Lion's Head

At first glance, it was just another in-water rock formation within the bay.  A little while though, the Lion's Head became apparent. It was only much later that I got a confirmation that indeed it was the famed rock.  I did not even thought that the Lion's Head rock was in Duvek Bay.

I took my time in going around Bgy. Sumnanga, marveling at the stone houses in the area.  Those stone walls were really thick, say one ruler's-length or more!  No wonder some structures are still intact even if they were roofless already.  

I was on my way back to the tricycle when I spoted this Ivatan woman. I snapped a few pictures without her knowledge (I don't usually do this) to the point that I was already following her.  She did not mind at all even when she saw me already.  

A short greeting was the only thing I can muster when she eventually smiled at me and showed me some of the onions she was tying.

I eventually ended up buying a few ties of her onions, much to the surprise and amusement of Joseph who came looking for me.

Atanacio Dapilan's former home

I have to ask the driver to stop since my attention was caught by a writing hanged on an abandoned stone house.  

It was the ancestral house of an Ivatan Kulasan singer and composer Atanacio Dapilan.

I hurried back to the tricycle after snapping a few pictures. On the road, I can't help but wonder if the writing on the wall of the ancestral home of the Ivatan singer and composer was a sign that it will soon be restored.  Such a worthy undertaking if it will be.  

We were on our way for lunch - finally!

The Rugged Charm of Batanes - The Places To Be In North Batan

Batanes province is made up of 10 islands.  Recently, the count became 11 because of the inclusion of A'li island.  However, only three of these islands are inhabited, Batan, Itbayat and Sabtang.  

Basco, the seat of the province is in Batan island which happens to be the most inhabited and made up of 4 municipalities (Basco, Ivana, Uyugan and Mahatao). Itbayat island is the largest among the island and the second most inhabited.  Sabtang is the smallest among the inhabited islands and is the least populated. 

Both Itbayat and Sabtang are island municipalities.  Itbayat is around 3 hours by sea on a faluwa from Basco, while Sabtang is around 45 minutes from Ivana seaport. (Thanks to Sir Noli C. Gabilo for these information).

I took a tricycle to bring me to the must see places in the northern part of Batan.  I sat at the back of the driver while my companion and guide Joseph Dy of DNA Travel sat inside the cab.  I always love to back-ride on tricycle-cabs for I get the chance to view the scenery on the road -- and there's lots of them on them on the way to North Batan!

Mt. Carmel Chapel

Sometimes referred also as the Tukon Chapel, the Mt. Carmel Chapel was commissioned by the Abad Family for the people of Bgy. Tukon so that on Sundays they don't have to go far to the town proper to hear mass.  

One of the striking features of the chapel aside from its stone walls were the wood works and the frescoes on the ceiling inside.

A good deal of woodwork can be seen, starting from the carvings on the wooden doors, to the pews, the altar and the lectern.  

What I liked best though, were the frescoes on the ceiling depicting the 6 saints representing the patrons of the 6 parishes in Batanes, namely: Basco, Sto. Domingo de Basco; Ivana, San Jose de Obrero; Sabtang, San Vicente Ferrer; Uyugan, San Antonio de Florencia; Mahatao-San Carlos de Borromeo; Itbayat, Sta. Maria.

From the chapel grounds, one gets a magnificent view of the green rolling hills and the sea beyond. A good place for photo-ops.

PAG-ASA Northernmost Station

Less than a kilometer from the chapel, going to the top was the northernmost PAG-ASA station of the Philippines. That day, the station seemed to be deserted.  

Nothing much interesting to see in the station, except the Campbel-Stokes recorder.  It looked more like a high-tech crystal ball, but what it does was measure the intensity of the sun based on the burn marks on a calibrated black paper.  


From the PAGA-ASA station one gets 360 degrees view Batan Island and the seas.

 

Fundacion Pacita
 
If one has the money to splurge for a Batanes vacation, Fundacion Pacita would be the place to stay and dine.  Its the 5-star among the accommodations in Batanes.  Its an ideal place for newly wed couples on their honeymoon or those who want to be in seclusion during a vacation. It's far from the town-proper, though.

Accordingly, the Fundacion was one of the best places to see the sunset in Batanes, probably while sitting down from one of the benches found in the exquisitely manicured lawns amidst perfectly sculpted topiary.  

I did not wait for sunset here since I was bent on experiencing it at the Basco Lighthouse in Naidi Hill.

Other than its environs and the view, nothing much can be done at Fundacion but coop-up in ones quarters and enjoy the interiors and amenities within and the view from the balcony.

Sculpture of the Abad Patriarch and Martiach in one of the many gardens in the Fundacion.

Japanese Tunnel
On my way to the Volugan Bay, I made a brief stop on the Japanese tunnel.  This was where the Japanese hid during WWII when they were being attacked by the Americans.  

I did not bother to go and check whats inside since I was informed that there was nothing inside the tunnel and the fact that did not have any flashlight with me.  One has to half-crouch to gain entry into the tunnel.


 
Volugan Boulder Beach

Big rocks indeed! 

A similar beach like Volugan exists in Surigao, at the Mabaua beach, but the rocks were smaller averaging to first-sizes only.  In Volugan, they were huge. 

There were also vacationers around taking pictures and having their pictures taken.  

The beach was not ideal for swimming due to the large rocks around and in the waters which can pose danger to the beach-goers. 


Provincial Capitol and Grounds

The statue of Aman Dangat can be found at the Provincial Capitol compound. He was the Ivatan chieftain who led the revolt against the Spaniards and later executed. He defended his people's indigenous rights and freedom.  

An old canon had been placed beside his statue. Across the Provincial Capitol was a pink painted structure, the Municipal Hall of Basco.

The Basco Cathedral
A few meters from the compound was the Sto. Domingo de Basco Cathedral.  

One cannot miss the ten commandments written in Ivatan at the right side of the church entrance. 

The first floor of the adjacent convent displayed a collection of some old documents and artifacts dating back to the 1700s. 

Seeing these brought back memories of my visit to the Sta. Maria Church in Sta. Maria, Ilocos Sur (http://throughthelensalr.blogspot.com/2012/12/ilocandia-adventures-sta-maria-ilocus.html) -- no form of protection given to them from further damage and decay.

Walking through the streets within the church, the provincial capitol, the municipal hall, the Basco Elementary and National High School, one cant help but marvel at the murals painted on the fence-walls of these buildings depicting the lives of the Ivatans.  What's more surprising and admirable was the the fact that NO single trace of vandalism can be seen in any of them!

Vayang Rolling Hills
The Vayang Rolling Hills was probably the most picturesque among all the places to see in Batan island, the Racuh A Payaman (Marlboro Country) would come in second. 

The ruggedness of the terrain and the lush green grass, the view of the hedgerows from the surrounding hills dotted by a few cows and carabaos grazing and the view of the sea beyond was just a sight to behold -- a perfect background for any photo-op.

Basco Lighthouse
I timed my visit to the Naidi hill for sunset -- the location of the Basco Lighthouse.  A number of visitors were already present in the area, enjoying having there pictures taken or taking pictures of the view around.  The lighthouse was not functional, though.

I was busy myself taking pictures. Just before twilight, I decided to call it a 'wrap' and headed back to the town center on foot.

The walk back allowed me to observe the locals as they go about their activity during night time.  

Dinner was again at Pension Ivatan.  I had Vunes (banana bud/'puso ng saging' mixed with Dibang/Flying Fish flakes), Sinigang na Lunes (Ivatan pork adobo) and yellow rice.  

the yellow rice which became my instant favorite

the salty-sweet Vunes

the sour lunes soup

The walk back to to the inn allowed proper digestion of the food I took.  Basco was a very safe place to go around, almost 100% crime-free, so one can stroll the town area in confidence. 

After a quick shower, it was lights-off already.  Tomorrow would be a long day.  Sabtang, here I come!

The Rugged Charm of Batanes - First Impressions

2am and I was wide awake already. My flight to Basco wont be until 530am.  Salem Guest House, where I had booked for the night, was just across the Old Domestic Terminal (NAIA 4) - no more than 5 minutes walk. 

I need to seat at the "F" seats as per advise if ever i wanted to get a good view of Batanes from atop during landing approach. Indeed almost all "F" seats had been occupied when it was finally my time to check-in.  I got the second to the last row, 17F, which became a blessing for it seats only 2 per side.

It's my first time on board SkyJet. I was impressed - clean, neat and comfortable seats.

Most of all, they served HEAVY snacks on board!  

I did not take anything while at the waiting lounge so it was a relief when the flight attendant offered me a choice of sandwich or cake, coffee or juice or water.

I was awakened by the announcement that we are now on our initial descent to Batanes. I opened the windows and can already see the seas through the clouds.  A few more thousand feet down and I got my first glimpse of an island - Sabtang.  

At the final approach, Batan island came into view - its rolling hills, rugged cliffs and white beaches. 

 

A few more minutes and touchdown to Basco. 

As the aircraft was taxing towards the terminal building, I notice that that runway stretches towards the slope of Mt. Iraya. The sloping runway may had been designed to aid in slowing down the aircraft as it touches the ground during landing. Gravitational brakes?

 

There were no baggage carousels at the arrival area.  

Passengers, after registration have to exit the arrival hall and wait until all the baggage have been unloaded from the cargo carts and arranged by the airport personnel, after which one by one each will be allowed enter back to gather ones baggage. 

The retrieval of baggage were orderly inspite of the number of passengers. The flight I was on transported also the Smartmatic PCOS machines for use in the upcoming elections in the region.

Breakfast was at Pension Ivatan. It's just beside the aiport complex.  

I had my first taste of Ivatan food - Dibang-Silog. Delicious! Dibang is Ivatan for flying fish which is abundant in the seas of Batanes.  I had my coffee on board Skyjet so I opted for hot calamansi to complement my food. 

I took a tricycle and proceeded to Shanedels Inn where I stayed for the entire duration of my trip.

Tricycles in Basco do not go around town in search for passengers. Gasoline is expensive in the island.  

You call the tricycle terminal and request for one to pick you up and bring you to your destination.  If you don't have the number, the establishment where you are in can help you out.  

Why did I not stay at Pension Ivatan? 

Its relatively far from the town-center. Take note though that Basco town-area can be explored by foot.  It's a small town.

I opted for a non-air-conditioned room.  During this time of the year, night time and early mornings were cold and windy. I ate my lunch of Ivatan Pakbet, fried pork Lunyes at the cafe of Shanedels Inn (http://shanedels.wix.com/batanes#!). 

The dining/function area has great view of the Basco Port and the Basco Lighthouse over the Naidi hill. 

The activity at the port, the blue seas and the green hills were enough to relax me after that early morning trip I had.  

Looking back the first few hours that I had been in Basco, I can't help but notice the courtesy Ivatans show to both the locals and visitors.  A smile, a nod, and greetings of 'magandang umaga' and 'good morning' were the ones I had been hearing.

I took a short nap to recharge and be ready for my first activity of the day - explore North Batan.