The Rugged Charm of Batanes - The Places To Be In North Batan

Batanes province is made up of 10 islands.  Recently, the count became 11 because of the inclusion of A'li island.  However, only three of these islands are inhabited, Batan, Itbayat and Sabtang.  

Basco, the seat of the province is in Batan island which happens to be the most inhabited and made up of 4 municipalities (Basco, Ivana, Uyugan and Mahatao). Itbayat island is the largest among the island and the second most inhabited.  Sabtang is the smallest among the inhabited islands and is the least populated. 

Both Itbayat and Sabtang are island municipalities.  Itbayat is around 3 hours by sea on a faluwa from Basco, while Sabtang is around 45 minutes from Ivana seaport. (Thanks to Sir Noli C. Gabilo for these information).

I took a tricycle to bring me to the must see places in the northern part of Batan.  I sat at the back of the driver while my companion and guide Joseph Dy of DNA Travel sat inside the cab.  I always love to back-ride on tricycle-cabs for I get the chance to view the scenery on the road -- and there's lots of them on them on the way to North Batan!

Mt. Carmel Chapel

Sometimes referred also as the Tukon Chapel, the Mt. Carmel Chapel was commissioned by the Abad Family for the people of Bgy. Tukon so that on Sundays they don't have to go far to the town proper to hear mass.  

One of the striking features of the chapel aside from its stone walls were the wood works and the frescoes on the ceiling inside.

A good deal of woodwork can be seen, starting from the carvings on the wooden doors, to the pews, the altar and the lectern.  

What I liked best though, were the frescoes on the ceiling depicting the 6 saints representing the patrons of the 6 parishes in Batanes, namely: Basco, Sto. Domingo de Basco; Ivana, San Jose de Obrero; Sabtang, San Vicente Ferrer; Uyugan, San Antonio de Florencia; Mahatao-San Carlos de Borromeo; Itbayat, Sta. Maria.

From the chapel grounds, one gets a magnificent view of the green rolling hills and the sea beyond. A good place for photo-ops.

PAG-ASA Northernmost Station

Less than a kilometer from the chapel, going to the top was the northernmost PAG-ASA station of the Philippines. That day, the station seemed to be deserted.  

Nothing much interesting to see in the station, except the Campbel-Stokes recorder.  It looked more like a high-tech crystal ball, but what it does was measure the intensity of the sun based on the burn marks on a calibrated black paper.  


From the PAGA-ASA station one gets 360 degrees view Batan Island and the seas.

 

Fundacion Pacita
 
If one has the money to splurge for a Batanes vacation, Fundacion Pacita would be the place to stay and dine.  Its the 5-star among the accommodations in Batanes.  Its an ideal place for newly wed couples on their honeymoon or those who want to be in seclusion during a vacation. It's far from the town-proper, though.

Accordingly, the Fundacion was one of the best places to see the sunset in Batanes, probably while sitting down from one of the benches found in the exquisitely manicured lawns amidst perfectly sculpted topiary.  

I did not wait for sunset here since I was bent on experiencing it at the Basco Lighthouse in Naidi Hill.

Other than its environs and the view, nothing much can be done at Fundacion but coop-up in ones quarters and enjoy the interiors and amenities within and the view from the balcony.

Sculpture of the Abad Patriarch and Martiach in one of the many gardens in the Fundacion.

Japanese Tunnel
On my way to the Volugan Bay, I made a brief stop on the Japanese tunnel.  This was where the Japanese hid during WWII when they were being attacked by the Americans.  

I did not bother to go and check whats inside since I was informed that there was nothing inside the tunnel and the fact that did not have any flashlight with me.  One has to half-crouch to gain entry into the tunnel.


 
Volugan Boulder Beach

Big rocks indeed! 

A similar beach like Volugan exists in Surigao, at the Mabaua beach, but the rocks were smaller averaging to first-sizes only.  In Volugan, they were huge. 

There were also vacationers around taking pictures and having their pictures taken.  

The beach was not ideal for swimming due to the large rocks around and in the waters which can pose danger to the beach-goers. 


Provincial Capitol and Grounds

The statue of Aman Dangat can be found at the Provincial Capitol compound. He was the Ivatan chieftain who led the revolt against the Spaniards and later executed. He defended his people's indigenous rights and freedom.  

An old canon had been placed beside his statue. Across the Provincial Capitol was a pink painted structure, the Municipal Hall of Basco.

The Basco Cathedral
A few meters from the compound was the Sto. Domingo de Basco Cathedral.  

One cannot miss the ten commandments written in Ivatan at the right side of the church entrance. 

The first floor of the adjacent convent displayed a collection of some old documents and artifacts dating back to the 1700s. 

Seeing these brought back memories of my visit to the Sta. Maria Church in Sta. Maria, Ilocos Sur (http://throughthelensalr.blogspot.com/2012/12/ilocandia-adventures-sta-maria-ilocus.html) -- no form of protection given to them from further damage and decay.

Walking through the streets within the church, the provincial capitol, the municipal hall, the Basco Elementary and National High School, one cant help but marvel at the murals painted on the fence-walls of these buildings depicting the lives of the Ivatans.  What's more surprising and admirable was the the fact that NO single trace of vandalism can be seen in any of them!

Vayang Rolling Hills
The Vayang Rolling Hills was probably the most picturesque among all the places to see in Batan island, the Racuh A Payaman (Marlboro Country) would come in second. 

The ruggedness of the terrain and the lush green grass, the view of the hedgerows from the surrounding hills dotted by a few cows and carabaos grazing and the view of the sea beyond was just a sight to behold -- a perfect background for any photo-op.

Basco Lighthouse
I timed my visit to the Naidi hill for sunset -- the location of the Basco Lighthouse.  A number of visitors were already present in the area, enjoying having there pictures taken or taking pictures of the view around.  The lighthouse was not functional, though.

I was busy myself taking pictures. Just before twilight, I decided to call it a 'wrap' and headed back to the town center on foot.

The walk back allowed me to observe the locals as they go about their activity during night time.  

Dinner was again at Pension Ivatan.  I had Vunes (banana bud/'puso ng saging' mixed with Dibang/Flying Fish flakes), Sinigang na Lunes (Ivatan pork adobo) and yellow rice.  

the yellow rice which became my instant favorite

the salty-sweet Vunes

the sour lunes soup

The walk back to to the inn allowed proper digestion of the food I took.  Basco was a very safe place to go around, almost 100% crime-free, so one can stroll the town area in confidence. 

After a quick shower, it was lights-off already.  Tomorrow would be a long day.  Sabtang, here I come!

The Rugged Charm of Batanes - First Impressions

2am and I was wide awake already. My flight to Basco wont be until 530am.  Salem Guest House, where I had booked for the night, was just across the Old Domestic Terminal (NAIA 4) - no more than 5 minutes walk. 

I need to seat at the "F" seats as per advise if ever i wanted to get a good view of Batanes from atop during landing approach. Indeed almost all "F" seats had been occupied when it was finally my time to check-in.  I got the second to the last row, 17F, which became a blessing for it seats only 2 per side.

It's my first time on board SkyJet. I was impressed - clean, neat and comfortable seats.

Most of all, they served HEAVY snacks on board!  

I did not take anything while at the waiting lounge so it was a relief when the flight attendant offered me a choice of sandwich or cake, coffee or juice or water.

I was awakened by the announcement that we are now on our initial descent to Batanes. I opened the windows and can already see the seas through the clouds.  A few more thousand feet down and I got my first glimpse of an island - Sabtang.  

At the final approach, Batan island came into view - its rolling hills, rugged cliffs and white beaches. 

 

A few more minutes and touchdown to Basco. 

As the aircraft was taxing towards the terminal building, I notice that that runway stretches towards the slope of Mt. Iraya. The sloping runway may had been designed to aid in slowing down the aircraft as it touches the ground during landing. Gravitational brakes?

 

There were no baggage carousels at the arrival area.  

Passengers, after registration have to exit the arrival hall and wait until all the baggage have been unloaded from the cargo carts and arranged by the airport personnel, after which one by one each will be allowed enter back to gather ones baggage. 

The retrieval of baggage were orderly inspite of the number of passengers. The flight I was on transported also the Smartmatic PCOS machines for use in the upcoming elections in the region.

Breakfast was at Pension Ivatan. It's just beside the aiport complex.  

I had my first taste of Ivatan food - Dibang-Silog. Delicious! Dibang is Ivatan for flying fish which is abundant in the seas of Batanes.  I had my coffee on board Skyjet so I opted for hot calamansi to complement my food. 

I took a tricycle and proceeded to Shanedels Inn where I stayed for the entire duration of my trip.

Tricycles in Basco do not go around town in search for passengers. Gasoline is expensive in the island.  

You call the tricycle terminal and request for one to pick you up and bring you to your destination.  If you don't have the number, the establishment where you are in can help you out.  

Why did I not stay at Pension Ivatan? 

Its relatively far from the town-center. Take note though that Basco town-area can be explored by foot.  It's a small town.

I opted for a non-air-conditioned room.  During this time of the year, night time and early mornings were cold and windy. I ate my lunch of Ivatan Pakbet, fried pork Lunyes at the cafe of Shanedels Inn (http://shanedels.wix.com/batanes#!). 

The dining/function area has great view of the Basco Port and the Basco Lighthouse over the Naidi hill. 

The activity at the port, the blue seas and the green hills were enough to relax me after that early morning trip I had.  

Looking back the first few hours that I had been in Basco, I can't help but notice the courtesy Ivatans show to both the locals and visitors.  A smile, a nod, and greetings of 'magandang umaga' and 'good morning' were the ones I had been hearing.

I took a short nap to recharge and be ready for my first activity of the day - explore North Batan.

Unplanned SAGADA - The Echo Valley and The Hanging Coffins

This is one of the very rare trips that I take -- unplanned.  When I was given the chance to join DNA Travel's adven-tour to Sagada, I immediately signed-up without no second thoughts.  Even the itinerary I did not bother to ask, just only the departure to and from the destination.

The chartered bus left for the Mt. Province around 7pm from Quezon City after a heavy downpour.  It will be another 12hours before we reach Sagada, via Baguio.  I was asleep most of the time, too tired from the air-travel from Cagayan to Manila and the infamous Manila traffic congestion and flooding.  With no more than 20 passengers on-board the air conditioned bus, it's like a person to each side of the bus, front to back.

We arrived just in time for breakfast. After leaving our things at the Kanip-aw Pines View Lodge, we headed immediately to the Strawberry Cafe, around 5 mins walk.  It was a heavy breakfast to everyone's delight.

courtesy of JONATHAN TOLEDANES CLAVEL, Ilo-ilo City

Later did I realize that it was a good thing I asked for another cup of rice because the first adventure for the day was a trek to the Echo Valley, towards the Hanging coffins.

 

courtesy of JONATHAN TOLEDANES CLAVEL, Ilo-ilo City

A chartered jeep took us through the St. Mary's Episcopal Church and finally to the base of Calvary Hill where the Sagada Cemetery (for the converted Christians) was located. From the cemetery it's a tricky down hill walk through a narrow trail leading to the valley.

A little shout here and there and one gets to experience the Echo Valley.  Everyone was more excited to start going down the hill to the  other side of the cliff to see the hanging coffins up close and of course for photo ops.

A local guide was with our group who initially briefed us about the do's and dont's while passing through the cemetery and down to the coffins.  The locals are more adept with the English language than with the Tagalog dialect.  They were influenced by the American missionaries who were the first to come.

 The hanging coffins were more imposing in reality than seen in  television or magazines.  With the trail that I have just followed, I can only imagine the challenge of bringing a dead body in a coffin and hang it on the cliff-side.  Eventually this was explained by our guide.  The coffin and body are brought separately to the area, usually the coffin first.  The body is passed from a line of people going to the cliffs.

 

The Kankana-ey (locals) don't embalm their dead.  Accordingly, people are encourage to participate in the funeral because having fluids like blood spills over ones clothing while passing the dead body would bring good fortune and/or additional skills to the person. As the guide was explaining this, we all became conscious of a few drips coming from the coffins. No one, however, dared to stand underneath them!

In almost all pictures I saw of the hanging coffins, there was always this chair attached to one or two of the coffins.  I asked the guide about it.  This was the 'Death Chair' where the dead was left sitting during the wake.  This chair will never be used in the household so they were hanged together with the coffin.  Case solved.

The ascent back to the other side of the cliff was more challenging.  Surprisingly, after a good soaking of sweat, I was able to church where the jeep has been waiting. I was the last person to arrive -- time to take more cardio-excersises . A few pictures around the chapel and inside and off our group went for lunch.